December 10th, 2010
I went to Blacks yesterday for lunch with Rick, Su and Oli. I was expecting the food to be good, but yesterday they excelled themselves. I’ve very little recollection of what we drank, we started with a good Côtes du Rhône and drank them dry, so had to move on to something else!
As a pre starter we ordered some bread and olives. The excellent sour dough bread is baked in the pizza ovens of Franco Manca – this gives it a wonderful, crunchy, nutty crust. Mild, pickled garlic accompanies the olives.
I had a delicious spicy fish soup as my starter – it was thick with tiny pieces of fish and had a fierce chilli kick which warmed away the cold. Floating on top were croutons and rouille, a spicy garlic and chilli sauce, traditionally from Provence. It was so good I could have eaten it twice! Bouillabaisse with rouille and croutons recipe.
I saw another diner eating the red deer Venison Wellington and it looked so good I couldn’t resist. It was a very generous and tender piece of venison, wrapped in puff pastry and baked in the oven. The dish was served on a wooden board, with red cabbage, butternut squash purée, spinach and savoury gravy.
In spite of the huge feast, I had to eat the Colston Basset cheese with pears and oat cakes to finish myself off. Colston Basset is a smooth, rich and creamy Stilton, which you can buy from Neal’s Yard Dairy, in Covent Garden or Borough.
Blacks is at 67 Dean Street, W1D 4QH, but you’ll have to be a member or go with a member to eat there. I may have to go back and eat this again before they change the menu!