June 25th 2011
I’ve just eaten faggots in a Soho churchyard on a Saturday afternoon – fortunately, I was at the Soho Food Feast and the faggots came in a bun. The feast itself was organised by Margot Henderson, to raise money for Soho Parish Primary School – she managed to pull together some outstanding restaurants and chefs to support the event. For a small entry fee each restaurant provided a ración or tapa for £2. It was Michelin Star food at a modest price. I tasted as much as possible…
Jacob Kenedy of Bocca di Lupo cooked his homemade buristo and sausages,
the blood salame (buristo) with grilled red pepper, sperlonga tomato and basil bruschetta was exceptional and one of the best black puddings I have ever tasted.
I went back later for the luganega sausage with pea a saffron, but sadly they’d all gone.
The faggots came from the St. John and were served in a bun with spinach – they reminded me of a thick warm paté.
Arbutus had some good looking brawn (which came highly recommended), but when I went back for it, the cupboard was bare.
The St. John, however, had a queue in front of the stall, waiting for burgers, so their food lasted a bit longer. Perhaps I should have been looking for their brawn in the first place, for obvious reasons, but I was trying to taste something from everyone. The St. John brawn was delicious and possibly more substantial than Arbutus (as it was two large slices in a bun).
I can’t say I really understand why people wanted burgers, but the Meat Wagon queue went around the block, so they must have been good! My taste is a bit more exotic…
Barrafina had a substantial, smokey, hot chill,
Blueprint Café had crunchy beans with pork
and Tapas Brindisa had a delicious Salmorejo (a dish from Cordoba, similar to gazpacho), containing a slice of Jamón Serrano and a piece of boiled egg (it was so good I had it twice).
The Groucho Club did a couscous with chicken,
plus what looked like Eton Mess (it definitely looked like they had a large bowl of Twiglets too – I don’t know where they fitted).
Mark Hix had a production line going,
producing smoked salmon with dill and cucumber on rye bread.
Koya were making
fresh noodles to go with pork, mackerel or green chilli.
I followed spicy prawn noodle soup,
from the PitStop Cafe, with their double cooked aubergine on fragrant rice and I can almost understand why people become vegetarians (but only almost) – the aubergine was that good!
Pulpo had some lovely, tender pulpitos
(baby octopus), with chilli and olives,
plus some beautiful looking onions with anchovies (which I didn’t get to try).
Also on the list of the ones that got away, are, the chocolate and cherry cakes
plus little tartlets from The Union,
oysters from The Wright Brothers and
burritos from Mestizo. I know, I missed out on photographs of a couple of others too… c’est la vie – I did try hard to eat it all!
Fergus and Margot Henderson gave a cooking demonstration and for the children, there was a vegetable sculpture competition…
We were all impressed when one little girl made a sculpture,
with cucumber and carrots, of Phil Dirtbox – Soho legend and compère for the auction and raffle.
The French House provided a cheap bar and I’m sure a good time was had by all. I certainly won’t forget the food in a hurry!
Great post Craig! wish I’d been there. Had my AmnesTEA fundraiser which clashed. Next year hopefully. re Meat Wagon, I’ve known people drive miles to eat their burgers…!!!
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