Mercat Galvany

mercat galvany

“Al mercat de Galvany volem compartir amb vosaltres la nostra passió pel menjar de qualitat incomparable. Amb molta cura busquem i oferim els millors productes per cuinar, menjar i gaudir.”

“At Galvany Market we want to share our passion for food of incomparable quality. With great care, we seek to offer the best products for cooking, eating and enjoyment.”

From the Mercat Galvany website.

temple d’aliments

Barcelona has many local markets, most of which were rebuilt in the late 19th and early 20th Century as the city expanded. Mercat Galvany is one of these, above the older part of town in the wealthy district of Sarria (probably the last outlying village to be annexed by Barcelona in 1921). Construction work started on Mercat Galvany in 1868 and it was completed in 1927. As you can see from the pictures, the market sits behind imposing stone walls and looks somewhat temple like, with it’s ornately decorated exterior and stained glass windows. It’s even laid out in the shape of a Greek cross.

entrada

I’d heard about Mercat Galvany – it’s somewhat special, selling the very best quality ingredients, mostly to locals and it’s completely off the tourist track. Growing increasingly tired of how La Boqueria looses a few stalls each year to cheap fruit juice and fast food on sticks, I decided it was about time I sought out Mercat Galvany, so far untouched by a tidal wave of ignorant guiris. I set out on a sunny morning with Silvia, to discover if this market really is the jewel in Barcelona’s market crown.

ridsan fruits

Entering the market from C/de Santalò, one is drawn towards the centre of the market, but I noticed straight away, that the quality of produce here is exceptional.

ridsan tomaquet

These purple Mar Azul tomatoes at Ridsan Fruits were stunning.

cercle de peix

At the very heart of the market is a circle of fish stalls, not unlike the Boqueria (although this is somewhat smaller).

peix fresc feli

Peix Fresc Feli had a beautiful selection of

pescados

anchovies, brill, langoustinemonkfish, squid, etc.

We arrived at the market at around 1pm. You will notice from the pictures that it’s quite quiet at this time. No doubt the shopping for lunch is done earlier in the morning and market stall holders stay open for latecomers. Most people in Cataluña have a cooked lunch between 2 and 4 in the afternoon. This is consistent with taking a siesta after lunch – it’s quiet mild at this time of year, but in summer the middle of the day can be unbearably hot and sticky.

joan i antonio

Above, the fishmonger at Joan i Antonio makes good use of his time by filleting small fish, such as anchovies. Anchovies are an inexpensive fish, often cured in wine vinegar (boquerones) and served as a tapa or starter.

red bream

This beautiful red bream really caught my eye.

fruites josuna

At the far side of the market (C/d’Amigó) we found Fruites Josuna – note the in-season calçots at the bottom centre of the stall. The exterior entrance/exit here is a mirror image of the one we’d come through on C/de Santalò.

tastatu

We started to walk around the stalls on the edge of the market. Vegetables seem to be positioned by the doors, fish belong  in the middle and everything else radiates from the centre. TastaTu specialises in artesanal Catalan products, such as goats cheese, natural yogurt, honey, olive oil etc.

el torrador del galvany

Here El Torrador del Galvany sells dried fruit, coffee, tea, caramels, etc.

eulàlia qualitat

Eulàlia Qualitat specialises in olives, tinned fish and vegetables. I noticed she even sells HP Sauce and Colman’s Mustard.

antic estanyol

Antic Estanyol sells sauces, canned goods, eggs, dairy, bottled water and (on the far right of the stall) bleach and cleaning products!

encarna mauri

The Encarna Mauri stall (like Antic Estanyol) look to be original, with a beautiful marble counter. Encarna Mauri is a delicatessen, selling national and international cured meat and cheese. On their web page they state that they specialise in German produce.

ous jordi

Ous Jordi sells eggs, direct from the farm with an emphasis on free range and organic. On the left is Montse, with dried fruit and fresh pasta.

polleria salut

On the walls next to Montse and Ous Jordi, there’s an exhibition of photos from the 1950s – I particularly like the one above of the Polleria Salut (healthy chicken) stall, who no longer seem to be present, but perhaps the family married or joined another stall in the market – I’d like to think that’s the case.

roast beeff

I was amused to find roast beeff (their spelling) on the Alex stall,

ternasco

but joking aside, their Ternasco de Aragón Marinat – Aragonese lamb marinated with olive oil, lemon, pepper, garlic and herbes de Provence, looks delicious.

carns selectes macià

Next door is Carnes Selectes Macià,

rolled meats

where I spotted this roll of breadcrumbs, mince, chicken and spinach.

bar el rincón

Bar el Rincón is cute, with seating for 8 people. I bet they have a large breakfast trade and a carajillo (expresso with rum or brandy), at 11.30, is a popular morning pick up. You can tell they’ve been busy by the rubbish left underneath the stools!

seating

There’s even a large seating area to sit down and rest your weary feet, not to mention a little Magic Roundabout by the door!

il raviolo

Il Raviolo sells fresh and dry pasta, sauces, pesto, cheeses and aromatised oils. To the left of the stall, they even have their own kitchen where the pasta and sauces are made.

xarcuteria carles

I’m not a huge fan of pre made pizza, but Xarcuteria Carles

pizza y confit

may have changed my mind. I’d definitely buy their confit de canard.

murgula

Silvia pointed out some fungi, called Murgula (Morchella), which are imported from Turkey.

tortillas

These hand made tortillas contain mushrooms

dauphinoise

and just look at these slabs of dauphinoise potatoes!

We were delighted by Mercat Galvany – many of the stalls retain their original features and the quality of the food is stunning. I will definitely be coming back here to shop! The produce is not cheap, but as they say, “Lo barato siempre sale caro” – “The cheap always comes out expensive.”

Tired and by now starving, we went in search of a suitable lunch…

Mercat Galvany is at: C/de Santaló 65, 08021, Barcelona.

Opening hours, Monday to Saturday: 07.00  – 14.30, Friday: 07.00 – 20.00.

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About Mad Dog

https://maddogtvdinners.wordpress.com/
This entry was posted in Barcelona, Barcelona Bars and Restaurants, Drink, Eating Out, Fish, Food, Game, Meat, Shopping, Spanish and tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , . Bookmark the permalink.

11 Responses to Mercat Galvany

  1. Eha says:

    Oh sheesh, Mad !!! Now, give us flight number, arrival time, where we can bunk etc et al and we shall be there . . . oh, ’cause we all shall be buying different kinds of different wonderment, may we have a central location . . . .

  2. Michelle says:

    Oh, how I love a good market. And, of course, roast beeff. 🙂

    • Mad Dog says:

      Ha ha – me too! I’m sure that was just an unfortunate typo, since they got the spelling right elsewhere. I’m quite sure the English do a worse job with Catalan spelling!

  3. Reminds me of the market in Troyes, France.

  4. Ron says:

    You gave us a lovely tour of the market. It would be vary dangerous to let me loose there, as I would want one of everything. I just wouldn’t know where to start, perhaps at Bar el Rincón….

    • Mad Dog says:

      Thanks Ron – I try to go to the market after eating lunch, it stops me making too many impulse purchases (though this time I was going for lunch straight afterwards). I think Bar Rincón is a very good starting point – it’s very well stocked for such a small space, though all the stalls in the market have a trap door leading to underground storage. Back in the day, I used to like going to the Boqueria for a bocadillo de tortilla (Spanish omelet sandwich) and a carajillo on my way home from clubbing. Probably at about 5am!

  5. Markets like these are incredible! Haven’t been able to get on line for a few days but we’re in Granada now meeting up with some pals. No market on a Saturday afternoon but plenty of tapas this evening!

  6. Pingback: Can Punyetes | Mad Dog TV Dinners

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