Paella de Marisco

paella de marisco

Paella is a Valencian rice dish, which originated in the 18th Century. The Moors began cultivating rice in Spain, perhaps as far back as the 8th and 9th Centuries and the marshes and lagoon of L’Albufera, (in the south of Valencia) proved to be a perfect place for paddy fields (though rice is cultivated all over Spain). Originally rice dishes would have been cooked in cauldrons or terracotta cazuelas – soupy stews of fish or meat, such as a Caldero Murciano or oven baked meat and rice with beaten eggs on top like Arroz con Costra. Paella became popular from about 1840 onwards and takes its name from the pan it’s cooked in – a wide but shallow polished or coated steel frying pan with handles on either side, ideal for cooking outdoors over an open orange wood and pine fire which provides a smokey flavour. Having become extremely popular with Spaniards and tourists alike, versions of paella can be found all over Spain and as far afield as British supermarkets. Much to the consternation of Valencian chefs and traditionalists, the fairly specific regional ingredients have become adapted, often mixing fish and meat – the worst transgression being the addition of chorizo, which is not found in any of the above mentioned rice dish recipes. Some of the “best” British celebrity chefs have played a big part in adulterating Spanish regional food. Read the 6 pages of comments on this paella recipe (which has been edited since it was originality posted and had chorizo removed from it’s contents!) to see how heated the debate can get. The revered Catalan writer Josep Pla said this, “The abuses committed in the name of Paella Valenciana, are excessive – an absolute scandal.”

To defend against the corruption of their regional food heritage, an organisation of Valencian celebrities from the world of culture, gastronomy and society has been set up, called Wikipaella. Their aim is, “To encourage knowledge and acknowledgement of authentic paellas.” Wikipaella lists 3 types of authentic paella, with acceptable ingredients: Paella Valenciana, Arroz a Banda/Senyoret and Paella de Conejo y Caracoles. Arròs a Banda is probably the origin of Paella de Marisco (with Arròs Meloso somewhere in between them and the cauldron), served all along the coast of Valencia and Cataluña (and probably the rest of Spain).

Arròs a Banda is mostly rice and fish stock, without seafood on top. All traditional paellas were peasant dishes, cooked in the fields or onboard fishing boats, so the ingredients were cheap and whatever people had to hand. In the case of fishermen, they used the fish and fish parts that they couldn’t sell. Apparently Arròs a Banda dates back to the Ancient Greeks, who prepared fish with saffron, in a cauldron over an open fire (the Greeks colonised the Mediterranean coast of Spain, 500 years or so, before the Romans arrived). Spanish fishermen cooked the same, adding rice to the pot some time after the Reconquista. Rice consumption decreased in popularity for a while, after the expulsion of the Moors (in no small part due to mosquitoes and malaria in the rice fields), but by the 16th Century, rice production was on the increase. Arròs a Banda is eaten apart from the fish that’s cooked in the same caldero, hence the translation, rice apart, though I’ve also seen it translated as, rice in abundance.

I was asked to cook something nice for a small outdoor birthday this week. My suggestion of a seafood paella was met with a resounding, “Yes!” Paella is traditionally cooked over a wood fire to impart a smokey flavour, but a barbecue can be a reasonable compromise and keeps everything outside. It’s quite common for Spanish people to use purpose built dual ring gas burners these days – some restaurants (and the Valencians consider this to be sacrilege) even use purpose built paella ovens!

arròs negre

Paella de Marisco receta:

500g Spanish Bomba or Senia rice
2 pints fish stock
1 medium squid (diced)
8 – 10 large prawns
8 – 10 mussels
1 small onion (finely chopped)
6 cloves garlic (finely chopped)
1 romano pepper (a pointed sweet red pepper) (finely chopped)
3 tomatoes (grated)
a glass of dry white wine
2 teaspoons pimentón de la Vera dulce
a large pinch of saffron
a dessertspoon fresh parsley (chopped)
lemon wedges (to serve)

cuttlefish ink

You will notice that I cooked two paellas – the top one contains Spanish El Aeroplano food colouring, added with the stock to give the rice a vibrant orange/yellow colour. The second, arròs negre (black rice) paella contains two sachets of cuttlefish ink added with the stock to make the rice go black. Otherwise, the recipes are the same.

First cook the prawns gently until the go pink, then reserve for later. Cook the onions in the middle of the pan – keep them moving until they take some colour. Move the onion to the outside of the pan, which is cooler and fry the romano pepper in the middle (a red bell pepper will do). Move the pepper to the outside of the pan with the onion, while you fry the chopped squid in the center. Mix the squid with the vegetables and move them to the outside. Grate 3 tomatoes (discard the skin) into the middle of the paellera. Cook for a minute or two and combine with the other ingredients. Add the parsley and garlic, then sprinkle on the pimentón de la Vera dulce (mild). Give everything a good stir before thoroughly mixing in the rice.

saffron

Have the stock hot and ready – make it yourself (as per mine, here) or use a good quality stock from your fishmonger. Pour the stock into the paellera, along with the wine. Use a good pinch of Spanish saffron, as much as you can afford – it’s the stamen of crocuses and is the world’s most expensive spice. Grind the saffron with a mortar and pestle (a trick taught to me by a Persian lady to increase permeation), pour on a splash of boiling water and mix into the paella. Add the food colouring or cuttlefish ink now. The Turn the heat up and give it one final stir. Taste and add seasoning if necessary, but if the stock tasted right (beforehand), it shouldn’t be necessary.

el aeroplano food colouring

Place the uncooked mussels and cooked prawns around the dish. On an open fire or Spanish paella hob, the stock reduction and absorption takes about 5 minutes. With a domestic hob it takes 8 – 10 minutes. When you can see that the liquid has reduced, but there’s still a little below the rice, reduce the heat to half way. Cook for a further 5 minutes at which point almost all the liquid should have been absorbed. Poke the wrong end of a spoon into the pan to check if you have any doubts. Remove from the heat and cover the paella with newspaper (or a double thickness of kitchen towel) for 5 minutes – not a lid! The paper keeps the dish warm and absorbs the steam, so that it doesn’t condense and drip back down onto the rice. Sprinkle on a little parsley for decoration.

allioli

Paella is traditionally served at lunchtime, warm, not hot and is eaten with a wooden spoon, straight from the pan with a wedge of lemon and  allioli. A large plate of paella is often a starter on a menú del dia, but it can cooked to order, in a large paellera, as a dish to share among friends.

gazpacho

I made a huge batch of gazpacho – handed out when people arrived.

salchichas

Later, Willy barbecued some fantastic sausages, made in house by her local butcher. Nick provided a Greek Salad and Abdul arrived with his delicious home made Pakora.

We drank gallons of cava from Sant Sadurní, where all the road bollards look like champagne corks!

About Mad Dog

https://maddogtvdinners.wordpress.com/
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15 Responses to Paella de Marisco

  1. Eha says:

    Yours seems to have been a wonderful party in more ways than one ! As years have passed I have made a nuisance of myself time and again saying I did not mind how people conjured tasty dishes as long as they did not put their own twist onto a classic and still call it by the original name !! A total insult to the past to my way of thinking !! I shall read all the links you have given but am writing this before ! I love to make paella outdoors in warm weather. I very much like your recipe. I have never made the rice with cuttlefish ink, but shall do so the very first time both temperatures and the blasted virus allow ! Meanwhile shall learn and, I daresay, get hot under the collar at what people have had to say in your link !! As for your party menu . . . did any of you think of food for three days after 🙂 ?

    • Mad Dog says:

      Thanks Eha – I have to confess to eating gazpacho for breakfast the next day, but the paellas lasted minutes, as did the pakora, salad and some very good cheese. I think the main gripes with paella are the addition of chorizo and cooking it in the oven. Jamie Oliver made a huge faux pas by telling his TV audience that the Moors brought pimentón to Spain – they didn’t, the Spanish discovered it in South America and all the English supermarkets make up faux Spanish dishes that I’ve never seen or heard of in Spain. I’ve even seen a newspaper recipe for allioli without garlic – translated the word means garlic and oil!

  2. Eha says:

    I very much appreciate Janie Oliver’s reach to a wide populace and what he has achieved or tried to as far as bringing up a healthier next generation is concerned. Coming from the Baltics I could cheerfully strangle him for saying beetroot is part of classic gravlax !! Oh, the party ! Loved all the food but give me sufficient paella and I’ll be happy for the day 🙂 !!

  3. Karen says:

    When we were in Barcelona, my husband had two rice dishes that he raved about…neither was called paella. I think they were strictly adhering to the rules. Your entire meal sounds terrific and must have quickly disappeared. Isn’t it nice that you could have your outdoor gathering.

    • Mad Dog says:

      Thanks Karen – yes, that’s it – if you cook something with rice and call it rice with squid or rice with fish and meat, nobody bats an eyelid. It was fantastic to be outside in a private yard with a small group of close friends, but you won’t catch me in the center of town, in a pub with lots of people for some time yet!

  4. Conor Bofin says:

    Lovely. I well remember cooking a paella in the south of France on a single gas ring during a thunderstorm using squid, local sausage, rabbit, mussels, prawns and some of the small fish that would otherwise gone into a soup. Fantastic time.

  5. Ron says:

    Mad Dog, I’m sitting here just prior to cooking dinner and getting very hungry reading your post. I also, as always, learned much from your history lesson as well as info on the proper way to make paella. I had to Google and check our recipes here and like other places, we’ve mucked things up. About have of the recipes I looked at called for chorizo and almost all added cooked chicken. Interesting as I’ve never made paella, although I’m very fond of it. Now I have the perfect recipe and I do have an outdoor 2-ring burner I can cook it on, so no excuses. Although, sourcing the squid ink might be tricky.
    So, would adding a touch of turmeric for color be a no-no?

    • Mad Dog says:

      Thanks Ron – it’s mostly people outside of Spain who put chorizo in paella. Chorizo is such a bold and delicious sausage there’s a tendency for outsiders to put it in everything and call it a Spanish dish – supermarkets do it all the time in the UK. I have had paella with chorizo in it, on the costa years ago and IMHO it completely overwhelmed the dish, especially the subtle flavour of saffron. Regardless, I don’t think the Valencian aficionados care what people cook with rice as long as they don’t call it paella. I have a few reasonably authentic Spanish non paella rice posts planned for the future…
      The addition of food colouring is to make up for the high price of saffron, so if you can afford to use about 1g of saffron in the dish, you will get the correct orange coloured rice. I believe the price of saffron has gone up relative to the cost of manual labour in modern times. If saffron is expensive in Sweden use less and add any flavourless orange food colouring. I have seen people in Spain use turmeric, but it does change the taste of the rice.
      You may be able to buy squid or cuttlefish ink from a good fishmonger, but if not, it is available online and cheaper than saffron! I used 2 little sachets, but will add more next time. I’ve had Spanish rice and fideuà that’s thick, black and sticky like tar – it’s very good!

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