Arroz al Horno

arròs al forn

Arroz al Horno (arròs al forn – in Valencia and Catalan) is a very simple rice dish from Valencia – there’s an annual festival for it in Xàtiva. This Baked Rice was traditionally cooked on Mondays, using the leftover broth from the weekend’s cocido. There are many Spanish cocidos (from cocer, the verb to cook or boil), the most famous, perhaps, is the Cocido madrileño (Madrid stew) and there’s Escudella i carn d’olla (a Catalan stew commony served at Christmas). These stews contain pieces of meat, sausages, vegetables and chickpeas, cooked for a long time over a low heat. The broth is normally served first with pasta – the Escudella broth comes with very large snail shaped pasta – galets.
The Madrid cocido has the vegetables and chickpeas served second and the meat served last. It is thought that these soup stews originally came from the Sephardic Jewish adafina cooked for the Sabbath. After the Alhambra Decree of 1492, where the Jews and Moors were expelled from Spain, many of them became conversos (converted Christians) in order to stay. To avoid torture and death from the Spanish Inquisition, the Marranos (as they were called) adapted their food to avoid suspicion, by adding pork and sausages. Over time these dishes have been adopted by the Spanish.

I can’t help noticing a passing similarity to Ragù alla Napoletana (from Italy) and cocidos – by this I mean that large pieces of meat with sausages are cooked slowly for a long time with vegetables and then the broth is eaten with pasta, followed by a second meat course. I imagine that this relates to cooking in a single pot over a fire, so the whole meal had to be cooked as one. This is also a typical Sunday meal.

Arròs al Forn is often referred to as arròs passejat (arroz paseado in Spanish), meaning walking rice. This is because (in the old days) housewives prepared the rice at home, but lacking ovens, took it to the communal oven or baker to be cooked. These days they probably take a 20 minute stroll while the rice cooks at home!

Receta de Arroz al Horno (serves 4):

4 small pork ribs
3 pieces pork belly (sliced)
3 or 4 morcillas de cebolla (depending on size)
4 cloves garlic (finely chopped)
a whole head of garlic
1 medium tomato (grated)
1 medium tomato (sliced)
1 medium potato (sliced)
a handful of cooked chickpeas (about 100g)
300g arroz Bomba
600ml home made stock (chicken or pork)
a large pinch saffron
sea salt and cracked black pepper (to taste)
liberal quantities of extra virgin olive oil (as required)

chickpeas

Relative to the stock coming from cocido leftovers, one would expect it to be quite tasty. I used a home made chicken stock which had been cooked with the pulp of 6 large tomatoes (from making salmorejo). If using stock cubes, I think a quarter of a chicken, pork (or beef) and vegetable cube, mixed with boiling water should produce a reasonable substitute. I soaked 100g dried garbanzos (chickpeas) in boiling water and cooked them in a pressure cooker for 25 minutes. I used a handful of them in the rice and ate the rest while the dish was in the oven!

I used a terracotta cazuela for the whole cooking process, but the hob cooking can be done in a frying pan and the dish can be cooked al horno (in the oven) with a glass casserole dish. Or use a large cast iron frying pan or casserole.

costillas

Season the pork ribs with sea salt and cracked black pepper. Brown the meat a little in hot olive oil, then reserve to a plate.

panceta

Slice the pork belly (panceta fresca) into little pieces, season and brown in the same pan as the ribs. Remove to a plate when it has taken some colour.

morcillas

Similarly, brown the morcillas a little, but don’t over do it or the skins will split. These were quite big black puddings, so 3 were sufficient. Many morcillas are quite small, so use your judgement. I asked Martin, the 75+ year old Andalucian butcher for his best morcillas muy ricas and ignoring the 4 varieties on display, he went off to the walk in fridge and came back with these, which were extra special!

patatas

With the meat caramelised, do the same with a thickly sliced medium potato.

tomates

Show a thickly sliced tomato to the pan but cook it for no more than 30 seconds per side or it will dissolve.

tomate con ajos

Turn the heat down a little and pour the grated tomato into the cazuela, along with the chopped garlic.

garbanzos

Cook for a few minutes before adding the chickpeas, then put the stock on to heat up in a saucepan – needs to be simmering.

arroz

Spread the uncooked rice around the cazuela and stir it to coat it with tomato and the oil in the pan. Cook for a minute or two on low.

azafrán

Grind a large pinch of azafrán (saffron) with a mortar and pestle. Pour on a splash of boiling water and stir  into the rice. In this simple dish, the saffron really stands out and shines. In many other rice dishes it can get slightly overwhelmed (especially those containing pimentón).

caldo

Next pour the hot stock into the cazuela and mix well. Taste the stock to check the seasoning – add salt and pepper as required, but you probably don’t need much if you’ve got the stock right beforehand.

montaje

Arrange the sliced potato around the dish, with the tomato on top. Put the whole head of garlic in the middle (give it a good coating of stock) with the morcillas around it.

arroz al horno

Cook the Arroz al Horno at 220ºC for about 20 minutes in a pre-heated oven. It’s ready when all the stock has been absorbed by the rice. Allow to cool for 5 minutes before serving.

allioli

Serve with a green salad, crusty bread and home made allioli. Do squeeze out the pieces of garlic to spread on the bread! I recommend drinking a dry white wine with the rice, such as Santpere Blanc from Valencia.

About Mad Dog

https://maddogtvdinners.wordpress.com/
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8 Responses to Arroz al Horno

  1. Fantástico como siempre! Qué control de la gastronomía española! 🙂

  2. Now doesn’t this look (and sound) delicious. I absolute love blood sausages of any kind. I’m intrigued that your butcher keeps his best out of sight.. but since he sold some of his stash to you, must mean you’re “in”

    • Mad Dog says:

      Thanks Frank and they were the very best morcillas. Butchers do save the best bits for customers they like. I went in and asked him if he had the rica (rich) morcillas like I’d had the time before and when he asked what I was cooking, went and got me the special ones. It’s definitely worth making friends with the butcher!

  3. My local butcher (Turner and George, down at the Angel, north London) sells excellent blood sausages. and yes, I agree: make friends with your shops, so to speak

    • Mad Dog says:

      Oh yes – I know them, on the corner of St. John Street. I like the fact that they put a water bowl out for dogs and offer them marrow bones. They look like good butchers. Theobalds used to sell very good morcillas, especialy Morcilla de Burgos (made with rice).

  4. Ron says:

    MD, this is a dish that is worthy of a dinner with friends. Blood sausage/pudding is also popular here, but quite different from the morcillas. But luckily we have a lovely Spanish butcher in Copenhagen that we can hopefully find them at.
    I’m thinking of cooking this in my Romertopf clay pot that holds 2.5 liters. Should I double the recipe? As always, thanks for your well-researched and written post.

    • Mad Dog says:

      Thanks Ron – it’s good to see you back! I’m sure you will find morcillas at the Spanish butcher. The recipe should feed 3 hungry people – the rice swells up quite a lot. That terracotta cazuela is 30cm across and 6cm deep. It holds 2.5 liters with about 1 cm spare. I think your pot has about the same capacity.

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