November 20th, 2012
On Sunday I cooked Sunday lunch for 9 people with Oli, chez Rick and Su in Golders Green. We went to Borough Market to plan the meal, but I bought a leg of lamb from Theobalds on the way (Grahame the butcher boned the lamb so that it could be stuffed).
We were talking about Lardo as we walked around the market and literally, right in front of us, was an Italian stall selling it – it’s quite an unusual product to find in Britain. For the uninitiated, Lardo is pig fat cured with rosemary and other herbs and spices. It’s a bit like a cross between Lard and Proscuitto ham. I didn’t know how we’d use it but I knew we had to buy some.
I sliced the Lardo as thinly as possible and fried it to make it crispy (this could be quite unorthodox – I believe it’s normally sliced and served on warm toast).
Meanwhile, Oli toasted some bread and made soldiers. The soldiers were spread with soft cod roe and half of them were served with Lardo. The taste of cod roe and crispy Lardo combined was amazing.
As an additional amuse-bouche we heated Confit de Gésiers in the oven and served them in a bowl with a sprinkling of Umami Dust (more on that later). Confit de Gésiers are duck gizzards, cooked and preserved in duck fat.
The stuffing for the lamb was made with 1lb of light and dark crab meat (from the fishmonger in borough Market), spring onions, garlic, 4 anchovies, juniper berries, ginger, curry powder, fresh mint, a shallot, tomato purée and 2 egg whites. The lamb was tied with butchers string to keep the stuffing in. The anchovies came in olive oil, so I rubbed the oil into the outside of the lamb and sprinkled it with a little Umami Dust. The lamb cooked in a fan assisted oven at 175º C for 90 minutes. There was a dish full of stuffing leftover, so that went into the oven later, 30 minutes before dishing up and was served on the side.
Umami is the Japanese name for the fifth basic taste – savoury. The others being bitter, salty, sour and sweet. The kind of foods that produce a savoury flavour when combined are: tomato, garlic, lemon, anchovy, vinegar, salt and mushroom. These ingredients have been combined to make a commercial product – Taste 5 Umami Dust. The dust was sitting on the counter while we were cooking, so it seemed like something to try. IMHO all the food tasted great, but you’ll notice that we used lots of the combined Umami creating ingredients anyway, in fact I use those ingredients in almost all meals…
To go with the stuffed lamb we served sliced, roasted Jerusalem Artichokes, Celeriac Mash, Cavolo Nero and
home made gravy. The stock was made by boiling up the lamb bone with herbs (rosemary, sage and thyme), carrots, carrot tops, celery, garlic, leek tops and spring onion tops – by tops I mean the leftover bits of vegetables that didn’t go into something else. The stock was stirred into the gravy, made from duck fat, the lamb juices, plain flour, red wine and Balsamic Vinegar. The lamb rested in foil for 30 minutes while the gravy was cooking.
While we made a mess in the kitchen, Su prepared some beautiful caramelised oranges with cinnamon.
At the appropriate moment, Oli flamed the oranges with Cardenal Mendoza – an outstanding Brandy de Jerez with a shocking price tag.
While buying the Lardo in Borough market, we also came across some fantastic Parmesan cheese, which was far too good for pasta, so we had it as the cheese course instead!
Throughout the afternoon, Sam produced some amazing cocktails and delighted us with magic tricks. Examples of Sam’s genius can be seen here and there.
You sure don’t do things by halves. Lardo is a new one on me. As is the Umami Dust. The crab stuffed lamb is very inventive. Was it good?
Best,
Conor
It was bloody amazing and worth doing again 🙂
Excellent and unconventional. That makes it even more excellent.
Thanks Conor!
If ever i come back to london i shall insist on a dinner party with you in charge and us wandering the market looking for delightful eats.. that lardo sounds fantastic.. c
You are on! You could make your own lardo, but not with the sisters 😉
Un plato muy interesante, MD… Me encantaría probarlo porque la mezcla de los ingredientes y todo el proceso de elaboración me están haciendo agua la boca 😉
Gracias Giovanna – me imagino Pepe Carvalho cocinar que uno … quizás 🙂
Crab stuffed Lamb? Wow! What a unique surf and turf combination. Sounds delicious! I think that I may borrow that idea from you one day!
Thanks – do feel free to borrow it. I can’t remember the exact proportions for the stuffing, but you can taste it beforehand. The original idea came from lamb stuffed with lobster 😉
Fascinating: yes, I would have thought of lobster too, but can taste the crab! How come the curry powder and jumiper berries got married? Truly have to try this!!!! Sorry, the flaming spirit used may not have a shocking price tag . . .:) !
Thanks Eha 🙂
This is just an unbelievable feast.. I’m so impressed. I’d love to have sampled every dish because each one has ingredient(s) I’m not familiar with.. so I can only look and imagine! Just wonderful menu and combinations!! I’ve got to try a few more of these ingredients, especially the “dust”!
Thanks Barbara! The dust is handy stuff, but you can easily get the Umami taste without it 😉
I bet they have it at my spice store here. I’ll have to take a look:)
MD, you do come up with some fantastic menus. Crab-stuffed lamb? I’ve never heard of such a thing and now I can think of nothing else. What a feast!
Thanks John – the crab stuffing was Oli’s idea – he remembered eating a lamb stuffed with lobster 🙂
I would never have thought to stuff lamb with crab! You have outdone yourself Mad! The lardo with cod roe, les gesiers, jerusulem artichokes, mah-velous!
Thanks – Borough Market is very good for food inspiration 🙂
Just one of the best conceived lunches – filled with imagination and wonderfully matched ingredients. Top.
Thanks Roger – I think the drinking in the French House plus Coach and Horses helped 😉
Absolutely amazing MD – just when I think you´ve done it all, you come up with another amazing feast. Can´t even begin to imagine what you´ll do for Christmas!
Thanks Tanya. I might do something very strange in the next week. There’s something odd in the Boqueria that has caught my eye 😉
Ooh – looking forward to it!
Inventive and delicious sounding….what a feast!
Thanks Karen 🙂
This all looks and sounds so wonderful! And as for the lardo – I love it when I see something like that unexpectedly, so I have to buy it and then make something delicious as you have here. I’ve just seen your comment to Chica and I can’t wait to see what you’ve found in the Boqueria!
Thanks – I’ve just eaten the the next post – I’ll try to get it online soon…
HI Mad Dog, the Parmesan and Lardo is from our stall at Borough Market, now we are in Green Market in front of hot food, come back soon enjoy enjoy our goods
Thanks for the update – that’s the best Parmesan I’ve eaten in London and the Lardo was quite special 🙂